22 Jul 2009, Posted by admin in L'Epicurien, 0 Comments
mix and match: wine is not the only option
Epicures have become enamored with wine pairings. Venerated, wine critic Robert Parker believes that “the revolution in the wine quality has coincided with an extraordinary revolution [in] the restaurants of the world,” which in turn has driven the wine pairing obsession witnessed over the past decade. Thirty years ago, there were few, top tier restaurants. Today, there are dozens of high caliber chefs in almost every large city. “Food and wine pairing has finally hit the tipping point, in that it is now expected at fine-dining restaurants, and increasingly at any self-respecting restaurant,” says Karen Page, author of What To Drink With What You Eat.
In an effort to capitalize off of these gains, a movement has emerged to redefine and highlight the versatility of other alcoholic beverages and spirits. This movement is one that has enabled certain forward thinking restaurants to stand out from the pack in a time when many are struggling to differentiate themselves in order to compete for increasingly discriminating clientele. These cutting edge restaurants are pairing beer, brandy, rum, tequila, and saké with their menus—to novel results.
A well crafted pairing is not only intended to provide an enjoyable, entertaining evening, but it is also an opportunity for the diner to learn about the manufacturing process and history behind the showcased beverage. While most urban foodies are knowledgeable of the wine production process, they would likely be less confident in a discussion around saké or tequila.
For year round edification, classes are offered at New York City’s Astor Wines & Spirits for the intellectually curious. This month, check out Absinthe: The History and Mystery of the Green Fairy, Vodka: History in Liquid Form, Tequila101: A Hands on Workshop, The Elements of Saké, and Drinking Stars: Pairing Dom Pérignon with Sushi.
The Food Network’s New York City Food & Wine Festival, taking place from October 8th-11th is another indicator of this emerging, culinary trend. An early look at the schedule shows events such as: Tequila Tasting at Los Dados, The Whisky Rebellion at STK, Gin Joint at 5 Ninth, and Saké Soiree at Buddakan—all designed to harmonize education with entertainment.
But you don’t have to wait until October to get in on the action. Here are a few places to try in the culinary capital of New York City:
Tequila
Mayahuel—Philip Ward of Death & Co. has opened another location, this time dedicated to honoring tequila and transforming the image of this spirit. Mayahuel’s dimly lit, bi-level space offers light, Mexican fare that is designed to compliment cocktails, which average around $13 dollars, and far outperform standard margaritas. Avoid the kitschy second floor, and try to land a seat downstairs where the atmosphere is more inviting.
For a sweet, yet potent tequila cocktail, try La Vida Rosa, made with a strawberry-infused blano tequila, rose wine, and elderflower blend. If you prefer a hot and tangy bite to your cocktail, try the Spicy Paloma made with jalapeño tequila, grapefruit, lime, soda, and finished off with a salted rim. If you are tickled with late night hunger, a hearty portion of palomitas—popcorn with lime, cotija cheese, and seasoned with ancho chili, is your solution. Other dishes of interest include the lobster ceviche served with passion fruit, mango, and jicama. The restaurant lounge also serves traditional options such as tamales, tacos, and quesadillas for the less adventurous foodies among us.
304 East 6th Street (between First and Second Avenues)
Brandy
The Brandy Library—This beautiful, Tribeca lounge conducts seminars on cognac, scotch, bourbon, calvados, rum, and armagnac, covering the history and art of distilling. Seminars take place from 7-9pm many times throughout the year and showcase approximately six tastes. In addition to the flight, the evening includes a welcome cocktail, beer, an informational booklet, and passed hors d’oeuvres from the upscale bar menu.
The bar’s menu which includes Figs and Pig, prosciutto wrapped figs in a port reduction, and mint, mac and foie gras macaroni, shouldn’t be overlooked. Be sure to finish your visit to this lounge with the Valhrona chocolate cake.
25 North Moore Street (between Varick and Hudson)
Beer
Resto—So hungry that you could eat an entire cow? Well, now you can, literally. With Chef Robert Hellen’s Large Format Feast, a whole animal is coursed in different styles of preparation and paired with beer. Offerings include suckling pig, spring lamb, and poularde en demi-deuil. One week’s notice is required to meet your custom request.
Resto also orchestrates imaginative, and non-traditional beer dinners throughout the year. Refined events this fall include Lambic tastings from Lindemans to Cantillon, Shellfish and Hops, and a grand-tasting, seven-course meal. To reconnect with your youth, mark your calendars for September 19th when you can stop in for Breakfast and Beer, or rather Kegs and Eggs—a fun, Saturday morning, drinking affair.
Not sure what to do on a Monday night? Resto hosts a three-course, $65 dollar beer prix fixe. Street side, outdoor dining is an excellent summertime choice.
111 East 29th St. (between Park and Lexington)
Saké
EN Shochu Bar—Housed inside En Japanese Brasserie, the premise of this stylish, saké lounge is small, shared plates, with an emphasis on shochu and saké. Until 7:30 pm daily, choose three types of saké for $18, accompanied by yasai, Japanese vegetable, chips. The saké and shochu list is impressive by any standard. The menu features exotic shochu derivatives from barley, sugar cane, soba, sesame, carrot, rice, and sweet potato.
According to sommelier Takahiro Okada, shochu is a spirit that is a perfect match for Japanese cuisine. The En Kaiseki tasting menu, paired with saké or shochu, features fresh, seasonal ingredients. A la carte selections include Kyoto-style appetizers such as thin sliced pork belly and grilled Mongo squid. House made tofu is prepared six times daily, served warm or chilled. If you’re a food daredevil, try the sea urchin egg custard, served chilled. Bring your evening full circle and finish with a refreshing dessert—preserved plums marinated in sugar and shochu.
435 Hudson Street (at Leroy Street)
Rum
Del Posto—The decadent Assaggi di Cioccolato by Joe Bastianich tasting puts forth rums from tropical regions such as Martinique, Hati, and Venezuela and presents them with three types of chocolate. The Tuscan produced chocolate includes an arrangement of 32% milk chocolate, 70% cacao, and 75% cacao paired with rum intended to balance the sweetness and bitterness of the cacao. Why stick to port when you can indulge in rum?
If the dessert trio were insufficient to capture your interest, Del Posto boasts one of the most exquisite atmospheres in all of New York.
85 10th Avenue (between 15th and 16th)
Cocktails
Macondo—“Freestyle Latino” cuisine is designed to be compatible with cocktails, dressed with common ingredients and flavors. According to Macondo’s house mixologist Junior Merino (otherwise known as the liquid chef), spicy South American fare is actually best complimented with a sweet, soothing cocktail. Beverages and fare are scrutinized weekly to ensure that a balance of flavors is achieved.
Hojas de Salmon, an Asian fusion ceviche, is paired with an Aguacate & Mezcal cocktail that contains honey and agave nectar. Similarly, the restaurant’s spicy Bacalaitos, crispy cod fritters with guindilla aioli, is wonderful with a sweet, Fresa and Pisco cocktail. Merino operates on the credo of combining red meat with whisky and white meat with gin. To put his theory to the test, try the Willianco dish of roasted quail, spinach, figs, and manchego cheese paired with zanahoria and gin. Another prime choice is the Brazilian-style meatballs topped with guava sauce and paired with guava and whiskey. For something simple, order a side of Patatas Bravas served with a heavenly, chili aioli for dipping.
Sit in Macondo’s rear for a leisurely evening, as high top tables in the forefront are better suited for a quick bite.
157 East Houston (between Allen and Eldridge)
–Melissa Matarese
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