21 Nov 2009, Posted by admin in L'Epicurien, 0 Comments

falai earns a gold star thanks to its gnudi

With contemporary white walls, a white tiled floor, and white tables and chairs, somehow Falai exudes warmth in its intimate, Lower East Side, location. Falai is a wine bar and restaurant, so don’t head here looking for a cocktail, but rather expect a diverse selection of Italian varietals to choose from. Also, with a $25 corkage fee, feel free to bring your own wine.

Falai certainly earns a gold star. Given its low-key atmosphere, the greeting of an amuse bouche of fried and crispy corn in pumpkin soup was unexpected, but well received. Furthermore, the restaurant boasts a versatile menu, including three tasting menus: the nine course Menu Fantasia, the Pasta Tasting, and the three course Menu Tradizione, all of which can be paired with wine.

For appetizers, split a few dishes to maximize your experience. The gnudi is by far the strongest pasta dish, and is quite enough filling to satisfy one person. Gnudi are spinach and ricotta type dumplings and the Falai version is dressed with a butter sage reduction. For a lighter dish, the ricotta flan is served atop micro greens with cauliflower puree, pine nut crumble and caramelized apples, which adds a delicate balance of flavor and texture. Note that this dish was bit overwhelmed by the other strong flavors on the table. I also enjoyed one of the evening’s specials, a mushroom duo of trumpet mushrooms and white truffles that was sautéed in a marsala sauce.

The branzino, cooked sous vide, was delicately wrapped in shaved carrots and its own skin. The fish was served over split potatoes, a garlic foam, and accented with a tart, yet sweet verbena. To the side was a sweet, butternut squash pureé. The others at the table thoroughly enjoyed the pan roasted lamb loin, served with fregola pasta, chanterelles, tomato compote, and a goat milk jelly as well as the peeking duck breast, accompanied by a pear and mustard pureé, broccoli rabe, romanesco, and Valrhona glazed foie gras.

Definitely do not skip dessert. The passion fruit soufflé was incredibly light, and resembled more of a meringue than a baked good, and will leave you feeling guilt free. If you prefer a heartier finish to your meal, try the profiteroles served with a marsala mousse with Valrhona bitter chocolate sauce.

Two courses of petit fours followed.

Falai

68 Clinton Street

(212) 253-1960

www.falainyc.com

–Melissa Matarese