20 Mar 2010, Posted by admin in L'Epicurien, 0 Comments

jean georges moves into abc carpet & home

My all-time favorite chef Jean Georges is at it again, this time with ABC Kitchen juxtaposed to the well-known retail space of ABC Carpet & Home. Natural tones pervade, both cosmetically and gastronomically.  White and black themes dominate the dining space, while green-style, organic cooking defines the menu. A list of local purveyors is delineated for the curious.

The cuisine is approachable and mainstream, unlike some of Georges’ higher end restaurants–though, ABC Kitchen is far from simple. I started with an innovative apple cider cocktail, a mixture of spiced cider, sparkling wine, and sparkling apple cider. Other cocktails worthy of attention are the blood orange Bellini and the vodka thyme lemonade. All incorporated exotic fruits and spices and were priced around $12. Because of the $35 corkage fee, my dining group also brought along two fine bottles of wine, an excellent way to save a few on wines that are often marked up by magnitudes of scale.

Appetizers ranged from fluke carpaccio to traditional, Italian raviolis. The fluke was light and fresh, thinly shaved, served with a blood orange section and drizzled with olive oil, salt and pepper. The added flavors brought out the best of the fluke. The simply prepared cheese ravioli and the mushroom bruschetta are perfect for the less adventurous. As for soup, the bean soup medley was hearty and impeccably cooked, the beans almost crisp, as they maintained their shape and texture, rather than exploding while simmering.

Mains too were a hit at the table. The chili encrusted black sea bass was a healthy choice that did not sacrifice flavor. It was topped with red bliss potatoes and spinach and served in a refreshing broth of ginger and spices. For the surf and turf types, dive into the half pound lobster, presented with easy access or the flavorful, flying pig pork chop.

A few desserts were home runs. Others, while more than adequate, didn’t blow anyone away. The table favorites were the beignets, filled with a vanilla lemon cream and served with a side of orange-cranberry sauce for dipping. The apple tart, a home-style choice, was spot on. The sundae begged for refinement, as the peanut ice cream could have used a bit more punch, though accenting it with caramelized popcorn and fudge didn’t hurt.

The wait staff was friendly and patient, which is always greatly appreciated. ABC Kitchen was overall, a pleasant experience.

ABC Kitchen

35 E. 18th Street

212-475-5829

abckitchennyc.net

–Melissa Matarese