28 May 2010, Posted by admin in L'Epicurien, 0 Comments

small plates, big taste: balaboosta, nolita’s new mediterranean gem

Mezze, tapas, antipasti–once rare among the more classical cuisine of New York’s culinary scene, over the past few years, the small plate has become a fundamental fixture in the city’s epicurean landscape. Pioneered by the Stanton Social, which opened to much fanfare in 2005, over the past 18 months, the small plates phenomenon has enjoyed a resurgence. Perhaps because of the recession, New Yorkers have increasingly eschewed the sumptuous steakhouse dinner and the formality of the five-course French tasting menu for meals comprised of the more economical, and often more satisfying, small plates. But despite the countless virtues of this movement–among them the ability to customize your meal and sample a broad smattering of the chef’s best–the ballooning array of small plates restaurants has made the concept ubiquitous and almost cliché.

Because of this it would be easy to write off Balaboosta, which opened last month in Nolita. But from the moment you step inside, it is immediately apparent that Balaboosta is different.  Unlike the somewhat sterile surroundings of the typical haute tapas joint, upon setting foot inside Balaboosta, you are welcomed with an unexpected warmth and the distinct feeling that mimics stepping into a friend’s apartment for an intimate dinner party among acquaintances.

Cookbooks and antique jars fill the bookshelves and portraits line the walls. Simple yet elegant wooden tables are placed in close proximity around the room to foster a sense of domestic intimacy.  Yiddish for “the perfect housewife,” Balaboosta uses its open kitchen to reinforce the sense of home, inviting diners in to look on as the Mediterranean-inspired fare is prepared before their eyes.

The menu is split into two appetizer courses and one entrée course to encourage diners to sample a broad array of dishes. The offerings pull from a variety of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Israeli influences. True to the spirit of the region, Balaboosta opts for lighter dressings and sauces, largely allowing its bright, fresh ingredients to speak for themselves.

The sea bass, for example, was lightly dressed with a basic tomato-based sauce and served with a simple garnish of peppers, tomatoes and root vegetables. The dish was cooked perfectly, with the crispy skin serving as a nice contrast to the tender flaky fish inside, while the light sauce allowed the flavors of the fresh fish to shine through.

Likewise, despite its incredibly simple preparation, the eggplant bruschetta is innovative because head chef Einat Admony combines somewhat quotidian ingredients which gives the dish a unique spin; smoked eggplant and parsley are placed atop a slice of grilled bread with a date molasses spread which provides sweet, complex and unexpected undertones.

At least one serving of roasted cauliflower, one of the menu’s standouts, was visible on practically every table. Despite being simply dressed with parsley, pine nuts and currants, the cauliflower is flawlessly executed, providing a nice combination of sweet and savory flavors with a slightly crispy finish.

Somewhat ironically, the best dish of the night was the least conducive to sharing. Thick and rich without being heavy, the sunchoke and chestnut soup is creamy and smooth and is drizzled with hazelnut oil, topped with crème fraiche and finished with sesame seeds. Despite the awkwardness of sharing soup, my group could not resist passing the winning dish around the table.

For dessert, the orange blossom malabi, an Israeli variation on a panna cotta, was light and airy, and served with candied kumquats which contrasted nicely with the sweet creaminess of the pudding. Presented as something of an inverted cheesecake, crushed peanuts and a dried, caramelized orange rounded out the dish, which provided unexpected yet welcome layers of flavor.

In addition to dishes like falafel-wrapped meatballs and do-it-yourself hummus (prepared table-side with a mortar and pestle), Chef Admony’s Middle Eastern roots appear on Balaboosta’s cocktail list. Drinks feature innovative ingredients like cardamom and spices, while oenophiles will appreciate the inclusion of a select group of Israeli and Lebanese options on the wine list.

While we did manage to sample a wide variety of small plate offerings, my party left Balaboosta with a minor regret–we had not been able to try them all. Amidst the scores of trendy tapas joints which have enveloped New York’s dining scene, Balaboosta has managed to carve out a niche for itself as a home away from home. I will most certainly be back to savor more of “balaboosta” Admony’s wonderful choices.

Balaboosta

214 Mulberry Street

212-966-7376

–Rachel Horowitz