11 Jun 2010, Posted by admin in L'Epicurien, 0 Comments

beba: soho’s newest see and be seen (supper) club

Between the throngs of models lingering outside, European techno-house music emanating from within, and the vibrant bar scene spilling onto the street, upon first glance, Beba appears to be the newest addition to Soho’s ever-expanding nightlife scene. Not to be overshadowed by Balthazar, the storied staple of New York’s hybrid restaurant-nightlife scene just a few doors down, Beba invites diners in with an attractive waitstaff whose glamour is rivaled only by that of its clientele.

Sure enough, on a recent Thursday night, the space hosted a fashion show, with the private dining area on the lower level doubling as a catwalk, and the downstairs bar serving as a makeshift DJ booth. But in contrast to many of its hybrid bar-restaurant peers which focus on cultivating a swank bar scene, Beba is more than just a pretty face.

Earning a reputation as a serious restaurant known for quality culinary offerings is all too often mutually exclusive from creating a vibrant nightlife scene. And while Beba is notable as the rare find which can accomplish both feats, in over-emphasizing the clubby vibe, Beba regrettably undermines the dining experience and jeopardizes its potential to distinguish itself as a notable newcomer in the more serious foodie scene. This is unfortunate, since chef Tom Papoutsis‘ menu, which incorporates elements of his Spanish and Greek heritage along with nods to French, Italian and Turkish cuisines, is more than capable of standing on its own two feet. The club scene is not only distracting, but leaves diners with the feeling that perhaps like many of its patrons, Beba is trying too hard to impress.

The menu features an impressive array of 15 different starters, ranging from more traditional Greek offerings such as an heirloom tomato and feta salad and pita, to more innovative fare, including a feta napoleon filled with a fig puree and topped with a sesame vinaigrette and the Beba bundle, a crab salad wrapped in smoked salmon with a citrus crème fraiche. The grilled octopus, dressed with olive oil, onions and capers, is cooked to perfection, slightly charred on the outside yet extremely tender inside. The crab cakes, which feature large, succulent pieces of fresh crab meat and brightly colored bell pepper chunks, are presented with a tangy yellow pepper puree and a garlic tzatziki counterbalanced by a sweet tomato jam, which provides a welcome contrast. While slightly dry and underdressed, the baby spinach salad is redeemed by its delicate presentation and the unexpected hints of sweetness provided by the braised onions and figs hidden within. Other standouts include the keftedes, or meatballs, which are underscored by a subtle herbal infusion and are beautifully presented with a tzatziki sauce and a vibrantly colored tomato vinaigrette, and the salmon and tuna tartare garnished with a citrus sauce whose bold, savory flavors more than compensate for its small size.

Main courses are no less satisfying, and are also notable for their impeccable presentation. The seared diver scallops are incredibly succulent, with the slightly sweet inside juxtaposed by a crisp brown finish with a delicate peppery flavor offsetting the sweetness. Garnished with an interesting, albeit somewhat monochromatic combination of fennel and calamari, the dish is finished with an anise-infused squid ink glaze whose bold color contrasts nicely with the mostly cream-colored ingredients of the rest of the dish. Despite the somewhat bland asparagus, green bean and potato medley which accompanies the rib eye, the steak is encrusted with a blend of herbs, is extremely tender and is a notable standout among entrees.

Following the strength of the first two courses, dessert at Beba is somewhat disappointing.  While it does offer a few Greek options, such as a baklava and a yogurt with walnuts and honey, the majority of chef Papoutsis’ desserts regrettably stray from his Mediterranean know how. Instead, Beba’s desserts include such standard American fare as a cheesecake, an apple tart and a chocolate cake, presented with the somewhat trite combination of vanilla ice cream and raspberry sauce, which is dry and unremarkable at best.

Perhaps to be expected given its lively bar scene, Beba features an extensive cocktail menu, replete with the requisite exotic martini bar. The wine list is also respectable, offering dozens of bottles and more than 20 options by the glass. In addition, the staff offered my group a complimentary Greek Muscat, which while sweet upfront, had a smooth aftertaste and provided a nice culmination to the meal.

Unfortunately, by the time the Muscat arrived, the techno music, which became increasingly audible as the meal progressed, was so loud that my group was practically screaming across the table, making it difficult to enjoy the end of our meal. In addition, starting around 9:30, the dining room waitstaff seemed to re-direct their focus to the bar and lounge area, resulting in my group having to ask several times for both water refills and the check.

Ultimately, despite the irrefutable quality of its culinary offerings, Beba falls short as a serious restaurant, due to its emphasis on fostering a vibrant nightlife scene. Armed with what it takes to compete in the hyper-competitive New York restaurant market, even in the shadow of the epic Balthazar down the street, Beba would benefit from playing up its culinary offerings and presenting itself as a true restaurant, as opposed to a de facto nightclub where food is merely an afterthought.

Beba

71 Spring Street

212-343-2322

–Rachel Horowitz