02 Aug 2010, Posted by admin in Fashion, 1 Comments

20 Questions With Handbag Designer Dareen Hakim

More than ever, consumers are prioritizing spending on items that offer newness, authenticity and a distinct point of view. And Dareen Hakim delivers all of the above. Combining ancient poetic calligraphy with a modern-day sensibility, Dareen Hakim weaves together old traditions with new designs through her eponymous handbag line. Launched less than a year ago, Dareen Hakim already sells in boutiques like Intermix and is worn by celebrities like Fergie. Recently, I sat down with Hakim to discuss how her Wall Street background prepared her for this entrepreneurial venture, her thoughts on social media’s impact on the fashion industry and how she defines real success.

Jennifer Sung: How was the idea behind your new handbag line conceived and what makes it different from any other handbag line out there?

Dareen Hakim: My line was really conceived based on my cultural background–I’m Lebanese. I grew up [in Lebanon] and a lot of the culture out there is a true mix of the old and the new. It is an inspiration not only for my handbags but also my taste, my style, and who I’ve become in this world. Everything I’ve enjoyed in my life and everything that reflects me has always been a mix of contrasts. When you live in a place where you see a beautiful sky rise building and then a beat up, bullet torn building and then an architectural Roman ruin—that mix of materials and contrasts creates an interesting and unique dimension. In creating this handbag line, I wanted to bring unique elements together. [For instance] I’ll use a material, like fine, delicate, supple leather with a really big, raw, heavy metal and then contrast that with an ancient art form that has existed over many civilizations against a modern day chic clutch. All of those things put together reflect my history and my culture and the person I am today. I think that creating something so unique and original lends itself to what fashion is meant to be. As a designer you are meant to design things that people have not seen before. I like carrying statements and things that are a reflection of me with a powerful message, so that’s kind of how it all came together.

JS: Who do you design your handbags for? Who is your target customer?

DH: She’s a confident woman, very worldly and travels a lot, has ambition in her life, seeks out answers, is curious and creative in the way she finds her answers, and is not afraid of being herself.  It’s more of a personality and an attitude. The collection resonates with women in their 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s and up to their 60’s.  The pieces are meant to reflect this confident, forward [looking] woman.

JS: Each of your handbags features an emblem that includes Arabic inscriptions like “Live and Laugh” and “Happiness.” What was the rationale behind the engraved messages on your handbags?

DH: One day while I was on summer vacation in Lebanon, I saw these white-haired men with their sons and grandsons crafting metal work with hand-and-chisel. This is an art form that has existed for generations and has been respected and revered for years within the culture. I particularly loved the calligraphy engravings as it has always been a unique way of translating a word and message into a feeling, and I think Arabic calligraphy does that in a very poetic way. A lot of poems and romantic stories have been written in this calligraphy, and as a result, you can really feel [the emotions] by not just reading it but by looking at it. I wanted that feeling to come through in my bags, allowing women, through their fashion accessory, to take a classic art and expression, personalize it and make it their own beautiful message that they carry on them all the time.

JS: You received an MBA from Harvard Business School and had a career on Wall Street and at beauty companies like L’Oréal and Maybelline. Can you tell me about your background before you launched your line and how it prepared you for your current role?

DH: I did do banking and private equity for five years before business school and I learned a lot. I’ve always been interested in business, but the whole goal of going into [finance] was to get the discipline and training for eventually doing something in general management. My father is an entrepreneur, my mother is an entrepreneur, and I always wanted to create something of my own, so I think the initial training you get on Wall Street by advising companies [allows you to] see a lot of businesses function across different industries, and then business school helps you hone in on those skills. But until you use it in an actual industry environment, you really don’t know what that’s all about, so that’s why I went to work at L’Oréal. The more I [progressed in] my career path, [the more] important it was to be able to work with people, personalities, and functional experts. They all have their own agenda and focus on what they want to do, and it’s so important in a management role to know how to keep everyone on track to [accomplish] a final goal. It’s so much harder to do than it sounds–it takes work, it takes training, it takes interpersonal skills, it takes appreciating each person’s expertise and function. And now [that I am working] by myself–all these other people, my PR, distributors, my material manufacturers–they all have their own [priorities] and it’s about getting them to work on your timeline. It’s a challenge but that’s an important thing I learned, especially at L’Oréal, and I’m continuing to learn now.

JS: Dareen Hakim handbags launched about a year and a half ago. How or where did you even start?

DH: I knew what my vision was going to be, and I built a concept based on that.  My first step was [to make] handbags and I wanted to have control over my product, so I wanted to find a handbag manufacturer in New York.  I literally just googled ‘handbag manufacturer’ and [started meeting] with people. In the meantime, I had a friend in Lebanon who helped me narrow down [a list of] artisans and metal workers out there and we worked on getting samples made, and getting a calligrapher to draw out the words that I wanted. I had to source the Italian leather, going to trade shows finding the ones I liked and figuring out conceptually the leathers that would make sense with my metal designs and bringing it all together, and then making samples. Then I did consumer [research on a] group of women of all ages to figure out the designs and messages that are most appealing.

JS: Securing a retail partner like Intermix and Henri Bendel can really make a difference for emerging brands like yours. How do you select and secure the retailers you work with?

DH: I go for the retailers who appreciate new unique fashions. There needs to be a match between the retailer (and their customers) and your product. Then it’s up to you as the designer to present it to them in the right way, at the right time, in the right place and hopefully you’ll have some luck on your side. It’s actually been a lot of hard work and reaching out to a lot of people and networks. It’s especially important to prove yourself at the beginning and convince retailers that you’re here to stay. I’m really determined and really passionate about what I’m doing. I really believe in [my product] and that it’s different; and this all comes across. I feel very fortunate to have Intermix [as a partner] and Henri Bendel has invited me a couple of times for trunk shows and for the upcoming Fashion’s Night Out event in September. It’s really nice to see well-established retailers [experimenting with] new things, new designs and new concepts. That’s how you discover new fashions and I think they’re doing it the right way.

JS: Are there any other retailers that you are hoping to add to your offerings?

DH: Well, first I have to be grateful to the small independent boutiques that took me on from the beginning. They helped me get my name out and share my collection, and were (and still are) the stepping stones to the tier of boutique retail chains. Boutique retail chains are great because they’re willing to take a risk, and they enjoy the benefits of discovering new designers.  There are so many wonderful potentials like Fred Segal on the West Coast [that I would like to add as a partner] so I will continue to work hard and share my work with these great retailers.

JS: Would you ever consider opening your own flagship store?

DH: For now, it’s way too early to tell, maybe someday in the future. It’s a good concept–just not for me right now. I like the idea of having a flagship store because you can really control your brand and give people a feel of who you are, but at this point I am trying my best to do that through my online store and website and Facebook. I’m always in contact with consumers, whether it’s through email or on the phone. I always pick up my phone, always answer email, and always keep up on Facebook.

JS: Today, social media is one of the fastest growing segments and many brands are paying attention to this online opportunity. How does your company use social media tools?

DH: On my website, I give consumers an experience. They can customize their bags and choose their leather, their metal, their inscription and have it custom made just for them. [By doing so], they feel like they’re getting their own little piece of luxury. It’s worth all the effort because people love being able to shop on the designer’s website and having that experience is another element.

I also have a Facebook page to keep consumers updated. I don’t have a Twitter account yet, but I will. I am very open to thinking about all kinds of ways to leverage consumers even more than I already am. For example, if enough people want a certain leather color, I’ll make it, and I want that feedback. Because my line is customizable, I want to create channels of communication to be able to do that.

JS: How do you see social media’s impact on fashion changing in the years to come?

DH: I think designers and consumers are going to be a lot more in touch with each other in the years to come. Designers have to consider what they’re creating based on consumer feedback and that’s going to become an even bigger wave as social media continues. Because you’re opening all these channels to more people all over the world, your style is going to get to them right away. So there isn’t the lag time there was before. There’s so much beautiful fashion in Asia and it starts there and gets to the Middle East then Europe and then a year later the US gets it. A designer has to be on their toes, react quickly and understand what consumers want. But there’s that delicate balance–you still have to take risks and let consumers react. That’s why customer relations is a very important element in fashion.

JS: What are the biggest near term opportunities and challenges for your company?

DH: As you grow a business, there’s distribution, there’s public relations, there’s product development, there’s so many [new opportunities and challenges]. I look forward to building a team and making new designs, and reaching [more] channels [of distribution]. I need a team and I need to continue to manage my finances well in order to be reinvesting into the business and to keep growing. As you grow, it becomes a lot more challenging because you have to invest a lot into new designs. You’re creating all these assets and you don’t know if they’re going to sell or not. Because at the end of the day, It is fashion–you’re not creating a necessity, you’re creating a luxury. There are so many [factors] and it’s a huge risk, but if you plan it well financially and conceptually and you anticipate your downstream needs in advance, I think it’s doable.

JS: Do you think you will eventually expand into other categories?

DH: For now, I want to stick to handbags. I think if you’ve got something good, [you should] stick to it. I want to specialize in [handbags] so I can do it as best as I can. Eventually, [I may expand into] other categories, but not right now. I started with clutches, and there’s so much opportunity just within the category to continue to grow the line.

JS: Why did you decide to start with handbags?

DH: In my opinion, handbags are the most timeless category in fashion. I can take this clutch out any day, in any season and it will always be what I want it to be: it will always be my statement clutch. When I want to wear nothing other than a little black dress, it can make an outfit.  You can take a risk with a handbag and still have it last through generations. I don’t think a woman can ever have too many handbags in her closet—especially clutches. Clutches are at a price point where they can be an impulse buy too–it’s not an oversized handbag, so it’s easier to rationalize the purchase.

JS: Fashion can be a very fickle business where trends come and go with each season. How do you create a brand that can stay relevant to consumers?

DH: You have to create a consistent brand. You can’t promise something and not deliver it. You have to create a brand that has meaning and not just a design element. If something is just a color or a style, it will go away, but if it has something else behind it, it will [stay relevant]. For me, once a consumer is attracted to the brand, they will always be receptive. They might want things that are trendy and in style but you can continue to move into new trends while still maintaining the core of who you are. And the way to do that is to have some pieces that are iconic pieces and then you can go and try new things and in that process you might attract new consumers. There are two things about the cultural embellishments [that maintain relevance to the consumer]: one is the message and the calligraphy and two is the actual metalwork. Metalwork will continue to be the underlying thread across the line, and metalwork is something that’s existed for civilizations and it’s going to continue to be that way, so it’s not just a fad–it has versatility and meaning.

JS: As your business grows, how scalable is the customization option?

DH: I will have certain iconic pieces that are customizable. Not all of them can be of course, but I always want to offer the customizable option somehow. I also do trunk shows where I assemble on site and people love that. Even when retailers carry the bags, they are technically ordering and customizing what they want. They can tell me, ‘I want this bag with this metal and this message’ so even the retailer gets playing time in the customization space and chooses merchandise that the store next door wouldn’t have. They will always have exclusivity in a way through the combination they’ve chosen.

JS: One of your bags is inscribed with the inscription “Wisdom and Strength.” Who or what gives you wisdom and strength in your life and why?

DH: My grandma gives me wisdom and my parents give me strength. I grew up in a time when there was conflict in Lebanon, where you never knew what would happen and you had to overcome whatever happened yesterday and start new today. It’s about getting a new perspective on life, getting a fresh start, and not letting anything bog you down. My grandmother is a woman who raised five children by herself because her husband died young. She supported them, educated them, raised them and sheltered them through much turmoil and uncertainty. She was always strong and positive and determined in the face of hardship because she believed in goodness. She built a very strong life for herself and her kids, out of nothing, in a little village outside of Beirut. She did this by always looking at the positive, believing in the best, being open-minded, honest and caring, and always lending a helping hand to her friends and her foes. Her perspective and wisdom is like no other I’ve seen. She inspires me to be half as amazing as she has been.

And strength is from my parents. Strength is about resilience. Again, when you’ve grown up in a place where you don’t know what tomorrow holds, you realize that the daily challenges of a “comfortable” life are nothing in magnitude, yet we make it such a big deal about them. My parents have always reminded me, every step of the way, that when bad things happen to take a minute to deal, then get over it and keep moving, because standing still gets you nowhere. Will is stronger than power. And that is what strength is. You have to raise yourself mentally above everything else and above all the influences of others, yet at the same time humble yourself enough to learn from everything around you and be able to take it all in. This is a long explanation of what my bag’s “wisdom and strength” message means to me and I get that reminder every day by carrying it on my arm.

JS: What do you do in your role as CEO and what does your daily schedule like?

DH: Every day is completely different. Each day is a surprise, a shock, another challenge to overcome. I do everything from determining my next designs and my product vision to working with my agency and all of the editors to stores and servicing current accounts, finance, budgeting, training interns, and a lot more. It ranges from being the face of the brand to cutting up the little inserts that go inside my bags when there’s no one else to do it. What’s hard about it is because there’s so much execution [involved] you have to stop and give yourself time to be creative. You have to stop just to think–from where you’re going with [the brand] in general, down to what story angle you want to pitch to the press.

JS: Through this experience, what have you learned about yourself in your role as CEO?

DH: I’ve learned that I’m persistent. I’ve learned how much I can actually multi-task, which is more than I thought was humanly possible. I’ve learned that I like control, and it’s hard because I’m a Type A personality and for my whole life I’ve always pursued things and gotten them done, but this is a job that’s too big for one person. You have to learn to delegate and learn to not sweat the small stuff. [I’ve had to learn] that I can control without being controlling. I’ve also learned how much I love working with a team I can rely on. I appreciate things in a way I didn’t before because it’s my own baby and to see someone investing their time into it means the world.

JS: How do you define success?

DH: Success is not about getting a sales account or making certain numbers to me.  Success is about creating something that means something to people. To know that every woman can find something in my collection that resonates with her and means something to her that’s success. To know that women have opened their eyes to new beauty that they’re not accustomed to, and taking in a new global element of beauty, that’s success. These are the things that make me believe that I’ve made an impact.

JS: Which living person do you most admire?

DH: My mom. She’s smart, she’s beautiful, she’s fit, she’s in control, she’s kind, she’s full of love, she’s an incredible cook, and she’s the definition of grace. She’s a business woman, a wonderful mom, wife, sister, daughter–a rock. She’s driven, strong and has instilled strong values in her children–to go for what you want, to not stop at anything, that there’s always a way, to never accept “no” as an answer, to be strong and not let anyone have an effect on you, and to believe in yourself. At the same time, she’s the most selfless person I know. She manages to do anything and everything for everyone. No matter what problem anyone has, she knows the right things to say. No matter what she’s doing, she’ll still find the time for other people–she’s quite super-human actually. I hope that one day I can learn to be like that.

But who drives me the most? My dad. He has always been my number one fan and always believed in me. If I wanted to be the reigning underwater basket weaver, he would be by my side and encourage me. He gives me courage and hope. I want to be the best I can be for him.

JS: What is the best piece of career advice you’ve ever received or given?

To find people who support you unconditionally and to have passion. With those two elements, you can do whatever you put your mind to.

Visit Dareenhakim.com to order your own personalized clutch today and to learn more about the designer.

–Jennifer Sung