11 Aug 2010, Posted by admin in L'Epicurien, 5 Comments

marc forgione fails to make marc among michelin mainstays

Contrary to its location on a peaceful tree-lined block of Reade Street in Tribeca, and the aura of tranquility which permeates the dining room, in the past nine months, Marc Forgione has created quite the stir in New York City’s foodie scene.

Last October, Marc Forgione, the restaurant of the eponymous chef, earned its first Michelin star, placing it among the likes of Aureole and Gramercy Tavern, a much-hyped feat for a newcomer which has barely celebrated its first anniversary. However, it wasn’t until this spring, when the temperamental Forgione threw a New York Times reporter out of his restaurant, that the chef really made headlines, catapulting himself to virtually instantaneous notoriety amongst the ever-expanding community of food bloggers.

With all of the hype, I was half-expecting the scene at Marc Forgione to resemble a sophisticated circus, but I was pleasantly surprised by the restaurant’s remarkably serene ambiance. The décor at Marc Forgione can best be described as a cross between a trendy Tribeca eatery and a rustic take on Little House on the Praire–an odd mix to be sure, but one which nonetheless works.

Exposed brick walls are lined with antique mirrors and copper pots, knotted wood tables and a 19^th century Dutch oven all contribute to the feel of a charming country kitchen on a farm far from Manhattan. However Forgione manages to skillfully strike a balance by being both relaxed and refined–using dim lighting and hanging lanterns to create a polished, sophisticated and slightly sultry vibe absent of the stuffiness which plagues many of his Michelin-starred cohorts.

The cuisine at Marc Forgione manages to strike a similar balance and is best characterized as haute rustic American fare. Forgione presents a creative twist on country classics which are elegant enough for his restaurant’s downtown environs. In addition, the cuisine reflects the significant influence of Forgione’s father, Larry, known as the “godfather of American cuisine,” and one of the original purveyors of the movement to incorporate fresh, local, produce into his famed restaurants. True to his background, Forgione’s menu is crafted around local grown ingredients and changes daily, emphasizing the freshest seasonal ingredients available.

My visit, in early summer, coincided with menu items featuring seasonal ingredients such as sweet corn, soft shell crab and fresh strawberries. My meal began with hot, fluffy rolls, cooked fresh in the country Dutch oven and accompanied by a caramelized onion butter. A complimentary amuse-bouche also appeared, which consisted of spoonfuls of crème fraiche topped with caviar and a delectable pea puree topped with a tiny piece of crisp bacon, and served on a wooden cutting board to underscore the farmhouse feel.

On Sunday nights, Marc Forgione offers a 3-course dinner special for $39, an excellent value for a Michelin-starred restaurant, particularly considering that the majority of the entrees are priced around $30 a la carte.

Of the first courses I tried, the delicate soft-shell crab, presented with a smoked onion remoulade and chive oil, underscored by subtle hints of bacon, provided a complex yet interesting combination of flavors. The salad, however, was appealing only in its vibrant presentation of a diverse mix of multi-colored lettuces. Dry and underdressed, the dish was basic at best, lacking in creativity and incorporating only lettuce, a single crouton topped with tomato chutney, and a few radish slices.

Like the appetizers and perhaps reflecting the purported demeanor of the mercurial chef, the main courses were also inconsistent. The chicken under a brick, prepared for two and impressively presented in a large cast iron pot, was quite good. It was cooked au jus, the meat was moist and tender, with a slightly crispy skin, which provided a nice textural counterpoint. While the dish’s emphasis was clearly on the chicken itself, the accompanying sides did not disappoint–cooked in the chicken drippings, the smashed Yukon potatoes and broccolini both exuded flavor.

While not quite on par with the chicken, the bass fish was decent–prepared alongside a handful of razor clams, the tender, flaky white flesh was juxtaposed by a crispy skin rubbed with a lemon-garlic paste. The buttery, garlicky and slightly overly-salty flavors emitted by the skin were largely offset by the bed of sweet caramelized red onions beneath the fish, which provided a welcome contrast.

While beautifully presented with a duo of an orange paprika oil and a green pesto sauce drizzled across the plate, the last main I tried, the dayboat cod, was unfortunately somewhat lacking in flavor. Presented over a bed of braised fennel and sautéed squash, the cod was flaky and well cooked, but despite the array of sauces decorating the plate, the dish was ultimately somewhat bland. The hint of spice introduced by a homemade sausage presented alongside the cod was so subtle it was almost undetectable.

Despite the variability and intermittent lack of creativity that characterized the first two courses, the desserts at Marc Forgione showed far more innovation. The recently-promoted 22-year old head pastry chef, Ashton Warren is youthful enough to remain unbiased by the traditionalism which epitomizes the majority of the city’s top pastry kitchens, enabling her to offer a fresh take on several quintessentially American classics.

The PB&J, for example, features local strawberry ice cream layered between two soft peanut butter cookies.  Presented with a small jar of jelly, a cinnamon spoon candy and a sugar coated strawberry to give it a sophisticated touch, the dish offers a fun, original take on the classic ice cream sandwich and was a favorite dish of the night.

The ice cream sampler was also quite good, featuring five small scoops of ice cream served in small frosted-glass canisters. While the selections rotate based on the seasonal availability of the ingredients, that evening featured banana cookie dough, chocolate with candied mint, s’mores, cookies and cream, and fluffernutter. Despite the wide range of flavors, all five selections featured a rich, smooth base that served as the canvas for unique ingredients. Many of Warren’s novel flavors will debut on a more permanent basis at the ice cream shop she is opening later this year.

Marc Forgione

The third desert I tried, a rum-soaked torta, was presented with mascarpone ice cream and served in a rhubarb soup with a candied mint garnish. While more refined than the majority of the desserts on the menu, the dish nonetheless remains true to the restaurant’s roots, incorporating seasonal rhubarb and mascarpone from a local creamery.

The cocktail menu also reinforces the restaurant’s focus on fresh, local produce, offering a number of fruit-based options including a bourbon cherry-cola, made with ripe bing cherries and a rum drink served with lemon juice and fresh muddled fruit. The wine list is quite extensive, albeit somewhat pricey, and features a number of French and Italian classics but also manages to incorporate a smattering of local selections, including a few options from Long Island.

While I found the Marc Forgione experience enjoyable enough, I ultimately came away failing to comprehend the basis for all the hype. There are undoubtedly strengths on the menu, and it is certainly an acceptable choice if you happen to be ambling through Tribeca, but ultimately Marc Forgione is neither sufficiently consistent nor creative enough to warrant a coveted Michelin star in the company of celebrated classics such as Eleven Madison Park and Gramercy Tavern or avant-garde newcomers like SHO Shaun Hergatt or WD-50.

Marc Forgione

134 Reade Street

212-941-9401

MarcForgione.com

–Rachel Horowitz