01 Sep 2010, Posted by admin in L'Epicurien, 1 Comments

bright lights big flavors at flatiron newcomer nuela

A combination of fusion and traditional Latina cuisine, Nuela is a new ceviche and South American restaurant in New York’s Flatiron district. The space, colored in bright reds and oranges stimulates the senses. Fashion designer Angel Sanchez and interior designer Christopher Coleman united to decorate the space (which has ended up feeling similar to Koi in the Bryant Park Hotel). Functionally, there is one large table for 14, conducive to large groups and a ceviche bar that faces chefs preparing small plates. The staff, manager, and chef were all inviting and proud to showcase the space and cuisine.

Begin at the bar and unwind with a calculated cocktail. The drink list includes classics such as the Mojito, Caipirinha, Pisco Sour and Cuba Libre. In addition to traditional favorites, there are original libations such as the Devil Sweat (chile-infused pisco, cio ciaro, citrus and beer), Summer Wind (farmer’s gin, cilantro, verjus and ginger beer) and Perucho (vodka, creole shrub, chichi, lime).

Meals begin with an inspired breadbasket, foreshadowing that the meal to follow will not disappoint. Chef Adam Schop believes that “bread should leave a good first impression” which is why he has created such a fabulous start to the meal. Bread service includes two authentic South American options: Pandebono, a Colombian cheese bread made with queso fresco and yuca flour and Arepas, originating from Venezuela and made with white corn and anise. Both are house-made and are served with a mascarpone, honey and black pepper spread. Why not splurge on bread and cheese since raw fish is such a healthy choice?

The ceviche, as quoted directly by my dinner company, “was the best in New York.” Each dish brought out was better than the next. Favorites were the thinly sliced scallops with charred pineapple, vanilla, mint, ginger, and a bit of a spicy kick and hamachi with aji amarillo, sour orange basil, and black garlic. Salmon was creatively paired with key lime, green apple, and a light, horseradish foam that imparted a creamy taste yet airy texture. For an Asian taste, the mixed marsicos of octopus, clams, and mussles was a crowd pleaser too. Mackerel, a strong fish, was not as popular compared to the other ceviches. Given the fish’s potent nature, the chef did an excellent job, preparing it with creamy kosho and lychee butter lettuce cups.

Not only can Chef Schop whip up a gourmet ceviche, but also he can cook. The tuna lollipop skewers were delicately plated and aesthetically cubed, with one side seared and plated with a pesto-like dipping sauce (we requested a second order straight away). The churrasco, a hanger steak, was served with flavorful, yucca hash browns, chimichurri sauce and delicate mushrooms.

Stuffed but ready for more, we devoured the pumpkin donuts and their sweet and sour accompaniments–honey molasses dipping sauce and crème fraiche.

Nuela
43 West 24th Street
(212) 929-1200
Nuelany.com

–Melissa Matarese