06 Jan 2011, Posted by admin in L'Epicurien, 0 Comments

zenkichi–a bamboo tree (and brasserie) grows in brooklyn

Once known as a culinary wasteland home to little more than dingy diners and dive bars, over the past few years, Williamsburg’s dining scene has undergone a thorough transformation. Abetted by the critical acclaim surrounding the rise of restaurants like Dressler, Marlow & Sons and Fatty Cue, Williamsburg has emerged as arguably the hottest dining destination in the City and convinced throngs of Manhattanites to make the once-unthinkable journey beyond the 1^st Avenue Stop on the L-Train.

Overlooked amid the fanfare surrounding Williamsburg’s restaurant renaissance is Zenkichi, one of the pioneers in the neighborhood’s now-burgeoning dining scene.  Opened in 2006 by a Tokyo native, Zenkichi dubs itself a “modern Japanese brasserie,” with a menu that features creative Tokyo-style tapas. Emphasizing innovative and seasonal ingredients, the chef concocts creative combinations in an effort to push American diners beyond their comfort zone of California Rolls and Chicken Teriyaki and encourage them to sample the full gamut of Japanese fare.

Located on a quiet stretch of N. 6^th Street, several blocks from the heart of the dining district which has cropped up around the Williamsburg Bridge, Zenkichi’s entrance is camouflaged by the building’s wood paneling and can easily be missed. But despite its unassuming façade, the moment guests set foot inside, they are instantaneously transported from the gritty, garbage-laden street to a refined rendition of an izakaya (a sake shope) reminiscent of something found in the heart of Tokyo’s Ginza district.

The restaurant’s dark, sultry lighting and labyrinthine layout contribute to the aura of mystery. After scaling a set of wooden stairs, diners follow a pebble-strewn path through a faux bamboo forest to arrive at their tables. Representing the complete antithesis of the raucous environment which characterizes the communal tables at Fette Sau and the cramped-beyond-capacity bar area at Fatty Cue just a few blocks away, Zenkichi’s dining area is configured to provide an intimate, semi-private experience. Each table is separated from those adjacent by intricate bamboo paneling, and is cordoned off from the hustle and bustle of the wait staff by a bamboo shade. To maintain the air of privacy, each table is adorned with a call button used to summon the wait staff, who are extremely knowledgeable and helpful, but appear only when desired. Replete with mood lighting provided by Japanese tea lanterns and a soft jazz soundtrack in the background, Zenkichi successfully conjures an intimate, romantic vibe that easily makes it one of New York’s best date spots.

Zenkichi cements its date-friendly status with a tapas-style menu, where dishes are meant for sharing (the restaurant recommends 4-5 dishes per guest). While my party did order a handful of misses, the overwhelming majority of the more than 20 dishes we sampled were both unique and delectable, exuding both flavor and freshness.

While there are no formal “courses,” and dishes arrive as soon as they are prepared to optimize their presentation and flavor, Zenkichi attempts to loosely follow the traditional 3-course meal structure, with soups, salads and veggies followed by rices and meats, and concluding with a dessert course.

Notable standouts among my party’s first course selections were the hijiki, which features chunks of sweet, chewy tofu simmered in sweet sake and soy and sprinkled with sesame over a bed of black seaweed. Likewise, the thinly sliced lotus root and carrot salad lightly sautéed in sesame oil and soy was also underscored by a sweet aftertaste which served as a nice counterbalance to the saltiness of the soy.

Zenkichi’s two salad options were unequivocal favorites among my group. The sweet duck salad, while superficially simple with only three ingredients, is flawlessly executed; the dish features a bed of lightly dressed baby greens and watercress, and is garnished with thin slices of perfectly seared duck. In a nod to French bistro fare, the dish is accompanied by a poached egg, which when poured over top the salad lends a layer of complexity to the dish.  Likewise, while easily overlooked by the majority of diners due to its assumed simplicity, the house salad was easily among the night’s standout dishes.  While the dish again features just three ingredients and revolves around the seemingly standard mixed greens dressed in a peanut-based sauce, it transcends expectations thanks to a block of homemade tofu, which serves as the visual and gustatory centerpiece of the dish. Silky, creamy and almost ethereal, the tofu liquefies when touched, giving it a texture more reminiscent of brie or yogurt. Topped with a handful of crushed peanuts which provided an excellent contrast in texture to the smoothness of the tofu, the dish was my group’s top pick.

While my group enjoyed the majority of our first course options, two notable exceptions were the chilled monkfish liver and the wasabi-cured octopus. Both dishes scored points for their creativity and the complexity of their flavors, but both were characterized by a somewhat off-putting texture, with the mealiness of the liver and the sliminess of the octopus making it difficult to stomach more than a few bites of either. In fairness, however, our waitress did caution us that the octopus was an “acquired taste.”

In an era where it has become virtually ubiquitous on Japanese menus, it takes a confident kitchen to not only serve the borderline-hackneyed miso cod, but also to recommend it as one of the specials. Despite the high stakes, Zenkichi’s rendition does not disappoint. The rich, buttery, almost-gelatinous layers of fish were permeated by the flavors of the sweet miso and finished with a slight char that provided a crisp counterbalance to the soft flesh.

While less prototypically Japanese, other mains were no less memorable. A perfectly-seasoned salt-and-pepper lamb chop accompanied by a sweet ginger, onion soy sauce is extremely tender, delicately seared yet still rare within. The pork belly is braised for three days and served in an intricate dashi, a traditional kelp and dried fish-infused broth. The dish included a chunk of the homemade tofu and the pork was so tender it practically disintegrated at the touch.

Like the preceding courses, sides also provide modern takes on standard Japanese fare, with tempura dishes featuring cutting-edge ingredients like chrysanthemum leaf and cod milt, or providing fresh takes on classics. The sweet potato and pumpkin tempura for example, while somewhat unremarkable of its own accord was revitalized by the green tea and salt blend which accompanied it, providing a saltiness that elicited and intensified the sweetness of the vegetables.

Rounding out the meal was the uni over rice. Garnished with salmon roe, the uni’s delicate, creamy texture is counterbalanced by the slight crunch provided by sesame seeds sprinkled over top, while the sweetness of the meat and the sake-infused seaweed which accompanies it is nicely offset by the wasabi-infused rice.

While my group enjoyed the vast majority of our dishes, the menu is riddled with a smattering of lackluster options.  Neither the potato mochi nor the grilled miso eggplant was particularly notable. The mochi was somewhat bland barring the stereotypical spicy mayonnaise dip, which accompanies it, while the overly-oily eggplant oozed grease with each bite.

While portions are somewhat small, with the recommended four to five small plates per person, my group was extremely satisfied after our first two “courses,” and would have opted to skip dessert had it not been included as part of the 8-plate tasting menu. This would have been a mistake, as dessert at Zenkichi is extraordinary and is not to be missed. While perhaps better characterized as ice cream, the frozen sesame mousse is smooth and rich. The chocolate base is accentuated by the nutty, earthy undertones of the sesame making for a nuanced dish. The walnut chocolate pudding showcased a similar flavor combination, with the thick, velvety texture of the pudding and the concentration of the flavors successfully redefining decadence.

While the ambiance and cuisine at Zenkichi are most certainly the focal points of the experience, the sake selection is nothing to scoff at. Offering more than four dozen options with detailed descriptions and pairing suggestions, there is a sake for everyone, and for those who find it difficult to decide, Zenkichi offers a number of sake flights which present guests with a sampling of three to four varietals. For diners seeking additional options, Zenkichi has recently opened a sake bar adjacent to the main restaurant, which has evolved into more of an after-hours wine and dessert bar.

Perhaps the lone drawback of the dining experience was the pacing of the meal, or lack thereof. Because the dishes are served as prepared, there is a somewhat chaotic quality to the progression of the meal, which precludes guests from fully digesting and enjoying each course before the next arrives.

This predicament is easily rectified by ordering the eight-course omakase tasting menu, which not only allows the chef to showcase the best seasonally-available ingredients, but also helps diners to structure their meals. The omakase is also a compelling value, providing a broad cross-section of the best the kitchen has to offer for just $55, which helps to keep the check in check, since at $4.50-18 per dish, a meal ordered from the a la carte menu can quickly become quite pricey.

While the Zenkichi experience is clearly well-worth the trip past the East Village on the L, it appears that Zenkichi’s dedicated diners have made a concerted effort to keep it out of the limelight to ensure that one of Williamsburg’s best kept secrets remains safe with them. Now that I have found this gem, I can’t wait to return to see what next season’s menu has to offer.

–Rachel Horowitz