J.Crew executive creative director Jenna Lyons has another hit on her hands thanks to a stellar spring 2011 collection complete with color, statement pieces and just enough of an edge.
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Monique Lhuillier was clearly having a garden party moment. With colors like red, green and rose floral prints it was a fantasy collection. The evening wear in the show was all about the drama. I would just love to spend a day lounging about in one her gowns, wouldn’t you?
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You have to give it to Michelle Obama–she has an amazing sense of rising fashion stars. One of her favorites of the moment is Sophie Theallet, a French born designer who was Azzedine Alaia’s right hand for over a decade. Her spring 2011 collection could not have been more beautiful–my only complaint about it was the space that Theallet showed in, Lincoln Center’s presentation space. Theallet showed a hybrid of a presentation and runway show and it didn’t do the collection justice–I wanted to get up close. I loved the Spanish influences in the show and that Theallet ended with her interpretation of a wedding dress (does she have couture aspirations perhaps?)
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Walking into Marchesa’s presentations is always a game–what stars are going to end up in what dresses? Sandra Bullock won the academy award in a one shoulder Marchesa gown earlier this year, and the list of celebrities that wear Marchesa for major red carpet moments goes on and on. The photos speak for themselves–tulle, beading, corsets, feathers, handpainting–each Marchesa piece for spring 2011 has a couture like feeling and is all about drama.
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Powerful. Sensual. Mysterious. Sexy. Independent. Lovable. Yes, I am talking about you, and me, and Sarah Jessica Parker (creative director of the less expensive Halston Heritage line)–but most importantly I am talking about the Halston spring 2011 collection. Marios Schwab, Halston’s current designer, describes his latest collection as “Evocative, provocative, and sensual,” and smack, those feelings slapped me in face when I pushed past the hurdles of fabulous people in the narrow foyer of an intimate Chelsea Gallery into the presentation.
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Oh Mr. Badgley and Mr. Mischka, why do you seem scatter-brained? Are thoughts of spring pollen fogging up your design process?
This New York fashion week the label Badgley Mischka (designed by business and romantic partners Mark Badgley and James Mischka) was all about florals but unfortunately not as innovative and inspiring as I had hoped and expected. Yes every gown had lines and contours that would make most women coo, but that has come to be a given for the line. Aside from a few moments where beautiful embroidery reigned, the collection was one big yawn and sometimes even confusing. One moment I thought the collection had a 1970s inspiration, another moment I was convinced it was exploring the 1920s era with georgette dresses fit for a Gatsby gala, and then a minimalist modern look would come down the runway and prove me wrong again.
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Oscar de la Renta was my final show of New York fashion week. I headed backstage before the show to chat with Revlon’s Gucci Westman about the makeup–a green smoky eye paired with a neutral lip. Westman wanted to added a youthfulness to the ladylike collection–give a modern spin to Grace Kelly. The collection itself was clearly inspired by Kelly’s iconic 1950s style. Karlie Kloss, who is currently starring in Oscar de la Renta’s ad campaign opened up the show carrying an ostrich bag full of flowers. The show progressed into adorable printed sheath dresses, and then a range of dresses fit for a 1950s debutant–a navy gazar embroidered with black organza and a white swansdown tutu with a black faille bodice. The evening gowns, cut at the ankle to reveal just a peak of the shoe felt like a wonderful throwback to a bygone era. The triumph of the collection–a celadon silk faille with the pink carnation appliqués and matching bolero worn by Karlie Kloss, while hard to imagine actulaly being worn will likely make the editorial pages pop this spring–I spotted Anna Wintour nodding approvingly.
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This was the first Ports 1961 show under the direction of Fiona Cibani, who took over as creative director this summer replacing her sister Tia. Fiona has long functioned behind the scenes, working on the business side of the fashion house, and not surprisingly due to her experience on the sales floor and working with retailers, directed her first collection towards the consumer. My immediate attraction to the collection was through its simplicity. Every woman can wear and actually live in every piece. However, as the show progressed I began to appreciate the complexity of the designs. The desert-inspired collection entitled “Essadi”, the pseudonym world explorer Isabelle Eberhardt used while traveling to Northern Africa in the 19th century, took me on a journey all its own. Looks in the show ranged from sophisticated daywear (khaki shorts and silk blouses), to easy flowing cocktail dresses, to an amazing finale of evening gowns fit for a 1950s glamour queen. The cuts were all about free flowing drapery and enhancing a woman’s curves. Most of the pieces in the show were made of beautiful silks in an array of gem tones–from terracotta, to sapphire to emerald. My favorite piece in the collection was a dusty pink evening gown with iridescent crystals woven into the top. The gown felt like a mirage from a desert fairy tale, and inevitably whoever wears it will be called the “Desert Queen”, Eberhardt’s fitting other nickname during her time.
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Richard Chai kicked off fashion week with a light and ethereal show. There were washed silks, matte leather and linen dresses and perfectly cut trench coats that I adored. Chai also introduced a sheer nude nylon body stocking slouchy legging layered throughout the show. The jury is still out on the sheer pants, would you wear them? All in all it was a great show, with some wonderful pieces. And I was sitting right behind Bill Cunningham, what could be better?
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A Catherine Denueve sighting, 1930s screen siren looks and a Dita Von Teese strip show? Only at a Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture show. We take you inside this Parisian feast of fashion.
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